Pelkor Chode Monastery was built around 1425 however, the Kumbum was completed in 1436. It is the largest Stupa in Tibet and the main attraction of the Monastery. There is a charge to enter but usually this is covered by the tour company you hire. Walking in, the path is lined with prayer wheel. Traditionally you should enter on the left and exit on the right. This is not a strict ritual unlike when entering a temple.
The main temple and assembly hall at Pelkor Chode is Tsulaklakang Temple. At the entrance is four large sculptures of the four Guardian Deities, two on either side. Passing through the main door, stright ahead you can see the assembly area for the monks. Turn left and notice the old painted murals and Thangkas adorning the walls. Circle the assembly room in a clock-wise direction. Pictures are permitted for a fee. Check with your guide to inquire what the current rate is. Typically it is cheap, around 20 RMB.
The Pelkor Kumbum is an impressive sight. You will have to leave your camera here (with a monk) or pay a minimal 10 RMB for photos. The Kumbum has 76 chambers, all rather small, that have wonderful mural of various Buddhas and deities. Also within the chamber will be a statue of the Buddha in which that hall is dedicated. Be cautious when taking photos. While the Monks allow this, local pilgrims definitely frown on this. The Kumbum also is said to have 108 doors/gates. There is an outer ramp that circles the Kumbum and works its way to the top. Near the top you enter the Kumbum to advance up a very steep and narrow stair to the top. From the top you have amazing views of Gyantse and the fortress wall surrounding the city on three sides.
After exiting the Kumbum there is a large red wall with a large white, blue and red stripe running from the top of the building to the bottom. There is a tradition of walking directly to the stripes, across the courtyard with arms extended and palms forward. If you line up with a certain spot it is good luck.
Also, when exiting the Kumbum, look to the right for another interesting Assembly Hall worth exploring. It is much smaller but still some beautiful murals and statues.
Note 1: The video below was taken in 2007. Our guide at the time spoke with a monk who invited us into a private area for a ceremony.
Note 2: During the visit in 2019, the Kumbum was under some construction. This video show local workers and a rhythmic way of make the hard pathway and gutters.
