Bayon Temple
Bayon Temple was built in the 12 century and about 100 years after Angkor Wat. Bayon is in the exact center of Angkor Thom. It is famous for it’s stone faces that highlight the magnificence of Bayon. In Bayon’s current state, it has 37 towers. Each tower has four faces point in four directions. It is very impressive.
Entering from the direction of the South Gate, the road circles Bayon. There are many tours. Buses cannot enter this part of Angkor. The largest size can only be 24 passenger. This does not stop the crowds. Not to mention the tuk tuk’s however there are far less of these.
I decided to enter Bayon from the north side. There are several entrances to the main temple. There is an outer wall with beautiful Bas-reliefs carved in stone. Once on top you can walk around in a complete circle. Several towers are very close at this point and makes for great photo opportunities.
A good amount of time can be spent here, especially if you want to get a photo with no visitors in it or really want to study the carvings on the outer and inner walls. I enjoyed Bayon more than any other temple in Angkor. So much that I went back a few days later in the late afternoon. This is the time to visit. Most people are flocking to Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng or Banteay Kdei to claim their spot and watch the sunset. By 5pm there were 4 or 5 other visitors at Bayon! Maybe I was lucky but I know I would return again this time of day.
200 Faces of Buddha: Favorite thing: Bayon is one of my favorite places. I went twice because I enjoyed it so much. My second visit was in the late afternoon. Bayon is known for the many faces of Lokesvara, better known in Buddhist mythology as Avalokitasvara, a Bodhisattva that is widely revered. There is said to be 200 faces around the upper tier. I didn’t count but there is a lot. The faces seem to follow you as you walk around. My second trip late afternoon turned into a thunderstorm. As the few people that were there took off running, I stayed, broke a light weight rain jacket and enjoyed the sights of the faces joined with the occasional thunder. Very special afternoon.
Outer Wall Bas-reliefs: The outer gallery of Bayon has beautiful carvings that are still in very good condition. Some walls show a procession of the Khmer army marching. Another wall shows activities of daily life at Angkor. This was one of my favorite things to do. I could spend hours just studying the carvings and imagining how life must have been for them in the 12 Century.
South Gallery – East Side: This gallery, by far is my favorite and the one that I feel has the most detail of all the Angkor temples, including Angkor Wat. On the east side of the South Gallery is the depiction of a naval battle that occurred in the early part of the 12 century between the Khmer army and the Chams. Many boats are carved with warriors holding javelins or bows going into battle. At the meeting point, warriors can be seen thrown into the water and being eaten by crocodiles! Among the boat are numerous fish swimming amid the battle. In very explicit detail, the south gallery naval battle shows clearly the start of the fighting and what becomes of the warriors if they fell overboard. It is quite possible they were forced overboard by their enemy. Crocodiles can be seen biting the torso or legs of the warriors in good detail with exposed teeth and clinching claws. This scene is found throughout the bas-relief. Frightening to think of not only fighting your enemy but also facing being devoured by crocodiles!
I was very impressed by the bas-relief here. I explored this wall in detail because I love the history it tells and the great detail that has survived so long. This wall is not to be missed!
Sunrise at Bayon: While the majority of people flock to Angkor Wat for sunrise, which should be experienced at least once, there are other options. If you are getting a late start and want to avoid the crowds at Angkor Wat, a visit to Bayon Temple for sunrise is a very worthwhile trip. If you are fortunate to have clear skies in the morning, I would suggest going to the top platform of Bayon and observing the faces as the sun comes up. Part of the fun is finding the right angle and right face where the sun makes first contact. I spent an hour here enjoying the light show on the faces of Bayon. Best part I had the place to my self. No crowds at all!